The history of chocolate, and its creation from the beans of the cacao tree, can be traced to the ancient Maya, and even earlier to the ancient Olmecs of Southern Mexico. The word ‘chocolate’ may lead one to conjure up images of sweet candy bars and luscious truffles, but the confections of today bear little resemblance to the chocolate of the past. Throughout much of its history, chocolate was a bitter beverage, not a sweet, rich-tasting treat. But after it became popular in the courts of Europe and the streets of colonial America, chocolate soon evolved into the universally loved commodity it is today.
“I get a feeling of utter satisfaction and happiness, on consuming anything chocolaty,” says André Bragança from Chandor, further stating that there’s something about how chocolate feels smooth and melts in the mouth that is so satisfying. “From chocolate milk to chocolate-covered strawberries, it is an ingredient that is as versatile as it is palatable,” he says.
Chocolate is made from the fruit of cacao trees, which are native to Central and South America. The fruits are called pods and each pod contains roughly about 40 cacao beans. The beans are dried and roasted to create cocoa beans.
It’s unclear exactly when cacao came on the scene or who invented it. Hayes Lavis, cultural arts curator for the Smithsonian’s National Museum of the American Indian, says ancient Olmec pots and vessels from around 1500 BC were discovered with traces of theobromine, the stimulant compound found in chocolate and tea.
It’s thought the Olmecs used cacao to create a ceremonial drink. However, since they kept no written history, opinions differ on if they used cacao beans in their concoctions or just the pulp of the cacao pod.
Most modern chocolate is highly-refined and mass-produced, although some chocolatiers still make their chocolate creations by hand and keep the ingredients as pure as possible. Chocolate is available to drink, but is more often enjoyed as an edible confection or in desserts and baked goods.
Cacao has been extensively cultivated in South India since the 1960s and 70s. Tropical agricultural adviser and cacao consultant GAR Wood, in his book ‘Cocoa Growing in India’ (1964), documented that the erstwhile states of Kerala, Madras and Mysore in South India were the most suitable for cacao cultivation. With rains from the South West and North East monsoons and a short dry season, some parts of the south, such as Nagercoil, Courtallam, Tenkasi, Palani Hills and Anamalai Hills (all in present-day Tamil Nadu) were selected for planting cacao.
Although the British first introduced cacao to India in 1798, by establishing eight plantations of the Criollo type of cacao in Courtallam, it was not until the British confectionery giant Cadbury broke ground in Wayanad, Kerala in the mid-1960s that cacao cultivation became a serious agricultural activity. But the Criollo variety from Central America was too vulnerable to thrive and was eventually replaced with the more robust and high yielding upper Amazonian Forastero variety that was brought in from West Africa and Malaysia.
“Chocolate has and will always in my opinion be, at the top of the sweets & desserts triangle,” says Oliver Fernandes, a chocolate fan and chocolatier from Margão, who is the co-owner of an artisanal bakery & patisserie in Margão.
It is most apt that we celebrate World Chocolate Day, he says further mentioning that chocolate is comfort for many and has healing powers of sorts, to the extent that it brings a smile to someone who is sad and is synonymous as a gesture of love universally.
Oliver points out to the fact that chocolate as a food type is so very versatile. “Making use of its versatility we use chocolate at our artisanal bakery & patisserie to make stellar sculptures, decadent truffles, bon bons, cakes, enrobed bars apart from signature desserts along with classic favorites,” he says.
“Contrary to what one might assume that chocolate would be more of a child’s favorite, we have seen an increasing number of adult chocolate afficionados who look for particular chocolate variants and types,” mentions Oliver.
Attempting to move away from mass produced chocolate, artisanal chocolate makers focus primarily on perfecting the various stages of cultivation to arrive at desired flavor profiles, instead of relying on artificial flavoring and sweeteners. “Chocolates are my all-time favorite since childhood. As a kid, I was crazy for milk chocolates and gems. Gradually my craving for the chocolate type differed and I developed a liking for Dairy Milk Cadburies. Lately, I just can't resist getting my hands on dark chocolates. However, no matter how much we age or whatever health issue we develop, most of us will never say no to a bite of chocolate,” says Shamin Almeida from Bicholim.
Through the bean to bar movement, what’s become clear is that chocolate doesn’t only mean the cookie-cutter chocolate bar or baking chocolate that we know. Much like wine or specialty coffee, cacao is also reflective of its terroir. It is a natural ingredient and hence in all means can vary with its harvest period and region, depending on elements such as the soil, the rainfall during that season, the time of
harvest and the process by which the beans have been fermented. While ethically sourced and cultivated craft chocolate may never realistically be able to free the industry from its deeply problematic practices, it can certainly pave the way towards a more sustainable approach. Besides, it could offer Indians a source of pride that is entirely homegrown.
“Chocolate is a memory, a delicacy, a treat, it has always been a friend who never leaves me in both the happiest and the saddest parts of my life. Be it my results or my exams chocolates were always something I looked for. Growing up, it was evident I loved chocolates, thanks to my teeth full of cavities. But that never stopped me from enjoying my favorite delicacies. Chocolate introduced me to baking, that has now become
my fondest hobby,” says Nonita Aguiar, a chocolate fan from Colva.
Dark Chocolate has been recognized for its numerous health benefits, owing to its high nutrient and antioxidant properties. It is said to promote weight loss, contributing to a healthy heart alongside lowering diabetes and lowering blood pressure. “Chocolate is directly related to activating the pleasure centers in our brain. It boosts mood by elevating the levels of serotonin in the brain. It may also work as a temporary stress reliever. However, excessive consumption of chocolate whenever stressed may lead to excessive consumption and habituation,” states Leanne Odelia Mesquita, mental health counsellor and psychotherapist based in Margão.
Some fun facts about Chocolate
Chocolate was once money that literally grew on trees: In Mayan times, cacao beans were used as currency and considered to be worth more than gold dust. To keep the value of the cocoa bean in check, the cultivation of cacao trees was restricted. Otherwise, it would have been too tempting to just grow your own currency.
It took eight years to develop the recipe for milk chocolate: Daniel Peter, a Swiss chocolatier and entrepreneur, spent eight long years trying to figure out a recipe for milk chocolate that would work. It wasn’t until 1875 that he realized that condensed milk was the answer to all his troubles.
White chocolate isn’t really chocolate: White chocolate isn’t considered to be chocolate because it doesn’t contain any cacao solids or cacao liquor. This sweet treat is made from a blend of cocoa butter, vanilla, and sugar.
Chocolate wasn’t always solid, or sweet: Until 1847, chocolate was a delicacy enjoyed in its bitter liquid form. The British chocolate company Fry and Sons introduced the concept of “eating chocolate” after combining cocoa butter, sugar, and chocolate liquor. This concoction was more grainy than smooth but was still enjoyed by many.