When Gopalas, the cowherd friends of Lord Krishna sing, dance and play games, it’s nothing but riot of muddy affair as they simply rejoice playing in the mud during the famous Chikhal Kala or Chikhol Kalo festival. The mud bath festival is organised at the sprawling ground in front of Shree Devki Krishna temple at Marcel. This is considered as the only temple in the whole country dedicated to Devki holding a baby Krishna on her lap.
The grand festival which will be celebrated today, July 18, the Ashadhi Duvadashi day, Chikhal Kalo is synonymous with the village of Marcel, though similar festivity is also celebrated at Shree Vithal Rakhumai temple in Sanguem. People from across the state pour in to witness such a lively folk tradition, which is still followed despite the changing times. The annual festival is celebrated with all its grandiose of yore. At Sanguem, the festivity is held in the evening, where they organise devotional Kirtan recital before the games.
One of the villagers like scores of others from Marcel who are keenly looking forward to the festival is prominent resident Kishor Laxman Bhagat who has observed how Chikhal Kalo evolved over the years since his younger days. He briefed about this great cultural tradition of the village, which is home to few well-known temples. Bhagat says, “The festival has a long history although it is difficult to pinpoint as when it began. Historically, many of the temples in Marcel were relocated from Chorao (Chodna) during Portuguese rule in Goa. Despite such a long period, whatever we have inherited from our ancestors we have continued them without making any changes to the festivities as all the elements of the past are followed religiously till date.”
Although musical programmes are organised since last year by Goa Tourism Development Corporation, it has no connection to the main festivity by the villagers, confirms Bhagat. The festival begins on Ekadashi, a day before with lighting of a lamp (Divli) at noon with singing of bhajan folk music by the villagers. This continues for 24 hours with the participation of many bhajan groups who exhibit their talent.
On the festival day after the final round of singing of bhajans, all the Gopalas gather in the precinct of Devki Krishna temple with their bodies smeared with oil and cotton in their ears to protect mud from entering. “There is a tradition in the village where the owners of nearby grocery shops offer the devotees with oil free of cost. Symbolically, they also apply oil from the big Divli in the temple. And, after the invocation of blessings of deity for the wellbeing of all, the merry makers with Sindur Tilak (vermillion) on their forehead circumambulate the temple with playing of cymbals and drums. They then enter the ground where they are lost to the fun with games and mock fights to the jubilation of assembled crowd.” The festival is celebrated in real community spirit that brings the villagers together without inhibition and ill-feeling, if any is lost in the red earth of nature as enjoyment only becomes central as smiles reverberate on everyone’s face.
For the villagers playing in mud is nothing unhygienic, but more of getting fitter and many feel it boost their immunity and protect them from various ailments. Perhaps our ancestor had the wisdom of nature better than the present generation. All these games are supposed to have been played by the young naughty Lord Krishna with his friends.
Chikhal Kalo is the time to witness different traditional games Lord Krishna played, adds Bhagat, but before they start playing, they warm-up a bit. Games such as tug of war, blind-fold, frog game, Chakra, the human wheel, Darchyani, Mendreani, Kabaddi, walking through the tunnel and many other games are played. For many Gopalas, it is the experience of their lifetime as some of them are lifted and thrown into the muddy slush, and other revelers pounce to splash mud water from all direction, which is one of the highlight of this monsoon festival.
As the group of the revelers split into two, it’s time for some jokes and sarcastic comments on others as everyone enjoys the joyous moment. And, that is not all as there is a drama too as two young boys mock wedding is enacted to add to the funny moment.
Finally everyone assembles at the circular platform where stands a peepal tree, Dahi-Handi breaking ceremony that marks the end of festival to the enthusiasm of all, but not before enjoying some sweets brought for distribution by the devotees of Lord Krishna. Chapati Boll, which is made of rice flour, grated coconut and jaggery is the traditional sweet that is distributed on the occasion. In recent time variety of sweets are brought by people in fulfillment of their vows, informs Bhagat. Yes, after the energy sapping games, though the revelers need some quick energy booster, there is competition to catch them like a cricket ball as sweets are thrown in air.
Bhagat reveals that the festival is not just a fun, but there is strong belief in devotees who invokes the blessing for a child and many families are seen giving the babies a mud bath as they feel their vows are answered by the deity. With rains pounding the state at its tremendous best for the last few days, this year’s Chikhal Kalo is likely to be the slushiest one! Be there to witness one of Goa’s unique cultural traditions.