The Jack of all fruits, Goa’s favourite ‘ponos’

The jackfruit is a versatile fruit that can be devoured raw or ripe, and in Goan cuisine the fruit is prepared in different dishes for meals throughout the day. From the morning breakfast to the evening snack, the seasonal fruit blends well with other ingredients to make a nutritious meal
The Jack of all fruits, Goa’s favourite ‘ponos’
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As the month of June is coming to an end, so also are all the seasonal summer fruits. However, there’s one fruit which is consumed mainly during this time and that’s jackfruit. It is part of many festivals like the Sao Joao which will be held on June 24. 

Jackfruit as we know is one of the most commonly found fruits in Goa and it is seasonal. The tree is easily seen in and around our backyards. Jackfruit is indeed a versatile fruit and if we look at our traditional dishes we realise it more deeply. When the summer season starts the baby jackfruit locally known as ‘chako’ is used to make curries or chutney known as ‘sushel’. This chako is also added to local delicacy, ‘khatkhate.’

As the monsoon season starts approaching, there’s a shift in ways this fruit is consumed. Traditionally it is believed that one should abstain from consuming it in raw form. Dr Maryanne Lobo, practicing Ayurvedic doctor, advices, “During monsoon, one must abstain from eating the ripe fruit just like that. It could result in diarrhoea in children and stomach ache in adults. That’s why we find so many traditional recipes where the jackfruit is consumed in cooked form like ‘dhonas’ (jackfruit cake) or polle or dosa (pancakes).”

Dhonas is one of the most cherished delicacies made from jackfruit. It is made by cooking the mixture of jackfruit pulp and coarse rice flour with roasted grated coconut and jaggery and a pinch of salt. Then, this mixture is baked and then cut like cake pieces. There’s also leather made from jackfruit pulp, similar to ones made from mango pulp.

Another dish made from jackfruit is ‘holle’. It is similar to ‘patolyos’ where the jackfruit pulp is added to rice paste along with jaggery. However, instead of haldi or turmeric leaves, cones are made from jackfruit leaves and this paste is layered around these cones which are stuffed with mixture of roasted grated coconut, jackfruit pod pieces and jaggery, and then steamed. These jackfruit leaves are also used in making another local dish known as ‘wheeat’ that resembles the south Indian idli. The batter of this dish is steamed in cones made from these leaves. This gives an added flavour and aroma to this dish. 

Jackfruit seeds are also used to make various dishes. They are preserved by coating them with mud or layered in the sand. The boiled ones are added to green leafy vegetables to add body and flavour. Also, now flour and even coffee is made from these seeds known as ‘jaafee’.

However, till recently this fruit was not cherished or celebrated like mangoes. But, with Jackfruit Festival or ‘Ponsachem Fest’, led by Festakar Marius Fernandes changed all that around a decade ago.

This annual fest celebrates various aspects of this fruit and also showcases different dishes made from this humble fruit. This year, Ponsachem Fest, will be held on June 22 at 3 pm at the Goa College of Pharmacy, Panjim. The event will also include São Joao and World Goa Day celebrations.

The highlight of this festival is the home-cooked Goan food and a variety of products by locals and also a workshop where one can learn to make jackfruit ‘pudde’, conducted by Chef Maria Dias. There will be also ‘Balcaoacho Gozalli’ or conversation between horticulturalist Miguel Braganza and senior journalist Prakash Kamat, discussing about jackfruit as the food of the future. 

This community led fest is aiming to be zero waste and focus on inclusivity.

Marius Fernandes, curator of this fest states, “Jackfruit is increasingly being hailed as the food of the future due to its versatility, sustainability and nutritional benefits. Its fibrous texture and neutral taste allow it to mimic meat in various dishes. Rich in vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants, jackfruit also offers significant health benefits. It has the potential to address food security and support sustainable agriculture.”

The possibilities with jackfruit are endless and thus if you have one jackfruit tree in your backyard, it’s time to look at in new light. 

Herald Goa
www.heraldgoa.in