The legacy of St Anne’s Church in Telaulim

The Feast of St Anne is a significant religious celebration held in Goa, particularly at the Church of St Anne in Telaulim village. St Anne, known as Santana in Portuguese, is revered as the patroness of mothers and grandmothers in the Catholic tradition
The legacy of St Anne’s Church in Telaulim
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Etymologically, Telaulim means low lying land. The land lies between the hill on one side and a tributary of river Zuari which was considered as a lake because of its shallowness, on the other. Thus, rendering toll (tollem)+halli, meaning land of the lake; Telaulim. It was only after the devotion to St Anne took roots in Telaulim, that the place came to be known as Santanna or simply Santan.

One is surprised when one sees the imposing edifice of the St Anne Church in Telaulim. This village was once a densely populated flourishing village with a population exceeding ten thousand comprising of Portuguese fidalgos and merchants, but today lacks the necessary population to fill its church pews, since its inhabitants perished during one of the plagues in 1783 which hit the village. Another belief speaks about how disrespect was shown to the Holy Eucharist during a procession of the Blessed Sacrament resulting in the village being cursed.

Legend has it that an old woman once appeared to an elderly brahmin lady from Telaulim, in a vision, who then mentioned about it to the priest in charge of the Chapel, describing the old woman as one wearing a hat and holding a staff descend from heaven. In this vision, the lady told the elderly woman that the chapel was her home. The priest, however, could not recall the name of the elderly lady who narrated the story. A few days later, the same old woman is said to have appeared to a new convert named Bartholomew Marchona, conveying to him the same message. The priest recognized the woman as St Anne and decide to construct this magnificent edifice in honor of her.

The Jesuits from the College of St Paul catered to the spiritual needs of the few Christians residing at Telaulim. A small chapel was constructed there somewhere around 1557 which was later enlarged by the Vicar, Monsignor Francisco Rego, between 1681-89. His successor, Fr António da Cunha, finally completed its construction in 1695. 

The church in Talaulim is one of the five churches constructed in Goa in the late Baroque style. “Yet another narration speaks about Fr António João Frias (1674-1727), a local priest, master in architecture who took up the job of completion of the church after Msgr Francisco Rego. But to his great surprise, he discovered some flaws in the building’s plan. Hence, he stepped out and moved to Divar where he executed the improved plan successfully in 1700,” says Fr John D’Silva from Sangolda. The original bell of the church was brought down for some reasons and was robbed in 1868. Therefore, a new bell had been installed in 1884.

The Feast of St Anne is popularly known as ‘Touxeanchem/pepinchem fest’ (cucumber feast), in Goa. People rush here from far and wide irrespective of their caste or creed. What draws them to this place is their need and sense of gratitude. The crowds for the Novena and Feast can be grouped into five categories: eligible brides, eligible bachelors, barren couples, couples with problematic marriages and those returning to Saint Anne in thanksgiving.  

As Portuguese was widely spoken then, the devotees to the church would address in Portuguese as Senhora Santa Ana. Eligible bachelors would come to the Saint with an offering of a spoon made of silver, wood or other metal, based on their economic status. As they placed the spoons at the feet of Santa Anna, they chanted in Portuguese ‘Senhora, tomai colher, dai mulher’ meaning ‘Lady, take this spoon, give me a bride’. Eligible brides would come with ‘urad dal’ and say ‘Senhora, tomai urido, dai marido’, meaning ‘Lady, take these cereals, give me a groom’. 

Newly married couples praying for the gift of a child, come with tender cucumbers, chanting the prayer, ‘Senhora, tomai pepino, dai menino’, meaning ‘Lady, take this cucumber, give us a child’. Traditionally, the cucumbers sold there were locally grown, however, today it is not a rare site to see migrant vendors selling cucumbers on the feast day. Couples desiring a girl child, offer a bangle saying, ‘Senhora, tomai manilha, dai filha’.

“My grandfather, António Fernandes is the one who brought about power supply to our village and did all the necessary wiring and lighting arrangements at our church, which thus became the first structure to get electricity in 1973,” mentions Elias Agnelo Dominic Fernandes from Telaulim.

A visitor, Pierro Della Valle writes from Goa in his letter dated July 26, 1623, about his presence at the Telaulim feast. ‘I went from the city in a place of Picnic, where there is the church of St Anne in which lots of people gather for its Feast. This church is situated on a low land between thickly populated houses not only of natives but also of Portuguese Fidalgos who have their summer villas in which they stay for a month. The surroundings are very picturesque with coconut palms and other trees. The street leading to it is magnificient, and is covered with so much greenery.”

The annual feast of the patroness St Anne, in Talaulim is celebrated with pomp and gaiety preceded by Novena. The feast is celebrated on July 26 or on the Sunday following it. The rain does not deter the festive spirit of the parishioners and devotees who come in braving the inclement weather conditions.

Herald Goa
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