Pleasures and Perils of Goa’s waterfalls

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Those who were lucky to have watched the Liril soap advertisement from 1975 to 1986 were transported to another world on seeing Karen Lunel cavorting and singing ‘a, lalala, la, la, la’ and soaping herself under a waterfall.

The advertisement is available on the internet. The carefree and happy attitude of Karen gave the impression that everything was fine till she revealed in an interview that the water was freezing cold at the Pambar Falls in Kodaikanal (Tamil Nadu). After few minutes of shooting, she had to come out, wrap herself in woollen blankets and sip endless cups of tea to keep warm. 

Geologically speaking, waterfalls form when water flows over different underlying country rocks, some of which easily erode than the others. Differential erosion of a rock formation that has fissures, cracks and faults would result in the water running over and debouching from different heights and places.

The crystal-clear water falling and tumbling from a height accompanied by bubbling sound during non-monsoon times and sediment-filled roaring water during monsoon are wonderful sights. One could get mesmerised by watching waterfalls and cascades (waterfalls flowing in a step-like manner). 

The first reaction of anyone would be to stand below the waterfall and imagine enjoying a shower bath in their bathroom! People do carry soaps and shampoos for that ‘bubble bath’ effect!

Goa has 38 waterfalls, besides the famous Dudhsagar, that are located in the wildlife sanctuaries of Mhadei (21), Bhagwan Mahaveer (10), Netravali (4) and Cotigao (3) that are visual treats during the monsoon. Some of these waterfalls are easily reachable while some would need trekking deep into the forests. But this does not deter people who wish to visit and drench under the waterfalls and have a rollicking time. The visitors are a boon to the jeep drivers who ferry them and to local people who earn well by selling piping hot tea and snacks. 

A visit to a waterfall has its downsides. Since the waterfalls are in the forests, one needs to be careful from wild animals, insects, trek through rough and unknown terrain, cross streams, step gingerly over slippery pebbles and climb moss-covered rocks. The visitors may not have ropes to help in the endeavours. People may avoid the local guides just to save money. 

The return journey could be tough since the streams that were ankle-deep may have become knee- or even chest-high due to rising water: because of tidal variations, rains or water flowing down the hills.    

At the waterfalls, the visitors freak out without caring for theirs and others safety. They jump, push, run, giggle, lie on the rocks, swim in the pool that forms at the end of the waterfall, click pictures etc. All these are fun till the water flow increases due to rains in the watershed areas that feed the waterfalls or a sudden cloud burst that result in copious rains (remember the event that occurred on 2nd October 2009 at Canacona? An intense rainfall due to a cloud burst led the Kuskem hill to crumble and caused massive landslides). The rocks smoothened over ages would be slippery and a fall could be fatal. The visitors would be unaware of the depth and rock outcrop present in the pool and end up in trouble waters. For instance, people stand on an outcrop and swim in the pool at Dudhsagar. 

Mishaps have led to disappearance of people and their bodies retrieved a few kilometres downstream or found wedged between the rocks. 

Reportedly, there is a large opening and people get caught in the whirlpool affect as the water exits from the other side of the highway.          

Recently, Goa’s Forest Department banned visitors to waterfalls and rivers during the monsoon and classified the 38 waterfalls as low-, medium and high-risk. Are these categories based on – approachability, rock types, number of streams to cross, distance to be trekked etc.? Due to the intervention of the tourism ministry, low-risk waterfalls are open to the public to give a fillip to monsoon tourism.

Banning visits to waterfalls is impossible as the locals need tourists and nature-lovers would be deprived from the pleasure of enjoying nature in her full glory. The authorities could mandate the following: 

Visitors must employ local guides recognised by the government

Check the weather before venturing to the waterfalls

Guides to have safety gears and first-aid boxes

A nominal entry fee  

No alcohol or any intoxicants.

The authorities need to:

Deploy life - and security- guards at the waterfalls

Warning boards indicting penalties for law-breakers

Improve mobile connectivity, as generally signals are weak or nil

Provide garbage bins

Install CCTV cameras  

The above suggestions are not exhaustive, but only indicative.

Once the safety measures are in place, visitors can prance and sing, ‘a, lalala, la, la, la,’ under the sparkling waterfalls!

Herald Goa
www.heraldgoa.in