SANTOSH NAIK
PONDA: As Diwali approaches, the small village of Tivre-Vargao in Ponda comes alive with the toasty aroma of gaunti fov (flattened rice) made in the traditional way—a process on the verge of extinction. Jayesh Naik, a young flour mill owner, is one of the few keeping this cherished custom alive, bringing the authentic taste of fov to Goan homes for Diwali celebrations.
For Jayesh, the art of making processing paddy into fov is a family legacy that he is determined to preserve. Unlike commercial poha, which is readily available in stores year-round, fov has a distinctive taste and texture that come from using locally grown Jyothi rice, soaked and baked in a traditional wood-fired oven known as a bhatti. “People rush here for this traditional taste that you just can’t find in pre-packaged poha. It’s more than food; it’s an experience of our heritage,” he shared.
Tivre-Vargao Sarpanch, also named Jayesh Naik, expresses immense pride in his village’s connection to this age-old tradition, noting that Jayesh’s work has brought renewed interest to Tivre. “People from all over Goa now come to Tivre looking for this local delicacy, asking for Jayesh’s flour mill by name. It’s wonderful to see this craft being valued again,” he remarked. The Sarpanch, who encourages other youth to engage in traditional occupations, is particularly impressed with the dedication required to sustain the fov-making process, as it not only upholds a cultural tradition but also generates local employment.
He adds, “This practice has always been a source of pride, but it’s at risk due to modernisation and the import of factory-made products. What Jayesh is doing is not just for profit; it’s a valuable service to Goa’s cultural memory, especially when unemployment is such a concern. Here, he’s created a meaningful livelihood, one that resonates with the Goan spirit.”
Jayesh recounts how, even with the availability of factory-made roasted poha that is brought in from the neighbouring States, the demand for gaunti fov has not diminished. “People tell me the taste of these traditionally made fov is unmatched,” he said. Many families appreciate that the Gaunti fov are made from freshly harvested rice, without the preservatives or artificial flavours found in store-bought varieties.
Continuing the tradition of making fov comes with its own set of challenges. Jayesh faces the rising cost of raw materials and the shortage of skilled labour willing to work in the intense heat of the bhatti. Despite these obstacles, he finds motivation in the appreciation shown by his customers. “Seeing families return every Diwali, sharing memories of how this is the same taste they remember from their childhoods, makes all the effort worthwhile,” Jayesh reflects.
He also addresses concerns over maintaining quality as demand grows. He carefully monitors each step of production to ensure that every batch retains the same authenticity that has kept people coming back year after year. The fov that Jayesh produces are not only a Diwali delicacy but also a symbol of Goa’s resilient spirit, one that cherishes tradition amidst changing times.