FROM WARDS & VADDOS

Margao mother-daughter duo evoke nostalgia with their forgotten Goan recipes

Sonika Lotlikar, 33, recreates her grandmother’s family recipes of pickles and masala bases, passed down through generations. She’s ably supported by her mother, Farida Ramesh Lotlikar, 55, who lovingly documented and taught her daughter to prepare a range of tangy variants of saasanv, a curry that is seldom found even in local restaurants today

Herald Team

MYOLA JOANES

myola@herald-goa.com

MARGAO: On a heartfelt quest to preserve Goan culinary heritage and revive rare recipes, Sonika and her mother Farida, are committed to bringing the authentic flavours of the yesteryears to modern taste buds. Operating from their home kitchen in Comba, Margao, the Lotlikars churn out a range of homemade Goan pickles, masalas and spice-mixes, alongside a long list of delicacies on a pre-order basis, to customers who crave the unique flavours of traditional Goan cooking.

Their offerings include khatkhatein, a comforting vegetable stew, and saasanv—a sweet and sour mustard gravy that packs an astringent punch—prepared with sour fruits and vegetables like pineapple, mango, methi (fenugreek), ghontta, and seasonal ambadde. They also make bimbli pickle, lime pickle, and raw mango pickle, along with carefully crafted masalas. Sonika explains that they operate on a pre-order basis, as many of these items are preservative-free and have a short shelf life.

The mother-daughter duo insists on being hands on, not delegating even the mundane tasks to hired help.

“We prepare everything ourselves, from selecting fresh ingredients to cleaning, cutting, and cooking, ensuring our customers receive authentic, high-quality products,” she says.

Farida’s love for cooking stems from recipes passed down by her mother, Premavati Bandodkar. Farida, a former high school teacher, left her career to focus on her family but continued to impress others with her cooking skills at family gatherings. “Back in 2014, when people began asking my mother for her recipes, I remember telling her to keep them secret. I thought we could build something one day,” recalls Sonika with a smile.

Life took unexpected turns, but the vision persisted. Sonika, an actress and former assistant professor, was managing the social media for her food brand ‘SouthMouth’ while balancing her career and family. Eventually, she chose to quit her job to focus fully on the business, allowing her to spend more time with her son, Abraam.

Their culinary journey also has an emotional side. Sonika and Farida share a fond memory of a customer from Vrudha Ashram who made a call and asked for ghotanchem saasanv, the kind his mother used to make. “He said he had lost his legs and was not able to pick it up, so I offered to drop it off. He took a whiff of the saasanv and had tears in his eyes. It was a moment of pure gold, which motivated me to keep this going,” Sonika recalls.

SouthMouth’s offerings are not restricted to Saraswat or vegetarian cuisine alone, they also include a meticulously crafted reachado masala, born from Sonika’s quest to merge Hindu and Catholic Goan flavours. “We visited many Catholic families, asking the older generation for their recipes. Through trial and error, and merging of many families’ recipes, we arrived upon our reachado paste,” she says. This commitment to authenticity has drawn interest from commercial brands, though the Lotlikars have turned down offers to share their recipes. “We began SouthMouth to preserve traditions and support local vendors,” Sonika explains. After several years in business, the mother-daughter duo have cultivated a loyal following, with customers traveling from all over Goa to pick up their products. “It brings me so much happiness to see people enjoying our food,” Farida shares, blushing.

Sonika adds, “My mother taught me everything about cooking and has passed down a legacy. Tough times bring out our inner strength, and that’s how our business was born.”

Reflecting on her family, Sonika shares that her father, Ramesh Lotlikar, has been her unwavering support. “My father’s belief in me has given me the confidence to expand and take risks.”

Each day, from sourcing fresh ingredients to packaging, Sonika and Farida put their hearts into every detail. They end their day satisfied, looking at customer feedback and feeling grateful. “To keep traditions alive, you must work wholeheartedly,” Farida concludes. “Nothing is more rewarding than taking pride in your roots.”

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