ERWIN FONSECA
BENAULIM: Goa, known for its unique blend of Portuguese and Indian influences, has always stood apart in its culture and traditions. Among its many cherished elements is the Goan bread, or pão, a staple in every Goan breakfast. While traditional pão was once made using toddy, commercial yeast has replaced this due to rising costs and toddy shortages. Aditya Rai and Andrea Thumshim from Colva-Benaulim are reviving traditional bread-making with a healthier, all-natural twist: authentic organic sourdough breads inspired by German and Goan recipes.
Aditya and Andrea, now the faces behind a flourishing bakery, never imagined they would one day embrace baking. “For 15 years, we travelled across India, exploring its diversity, culture, and geography,” Andrea shares. The couple wandered through different States, experiencing India’s vibrant traditions but never staying long enough to call any place home.
However, Goa was different. “I fell in love with the Goan way of life—the warmth of its people, the natural beauty, the sun and sand,” Andrea, a native of Germany, explains. Aditya was equally drawn to Goa’s unique charm. The couple began to feel that Goa could become their home. Yet, as frequent visitors to the State, they felt something was missing in the local breakfast offerings.
“Whenever we were in Goa, there was always something incomplete about breakfast. We couldn’t figure out exactly what it was,” Andrea recalls. In August 2020, in the midst of the pandemic, the couple made the bold decision to leave Pune and settle in Goa. Inspired by the gap they perceived in the local breakfast scene, they began learning to bake traditional German bread using natural methods. “It wasn’t easy. We took online classes in sourdough baking and sought guidance from master bakers in Germany. I was determined to combine German baking traditions with Goan culture,” Andrea explains. Setting up their bakery during the pandemic was no small feat. “From arranging premises and sourcing machinery to crisscrossing South Goa for essentials, it was a struggle. People were hesitant to help due to Covid-19, but we stayed committed to our vision,” says Aditya. Their perseverance paid off when, after the second lockdown in 2021, their bakery flourished.
Word-of-mouth recommendations and a focus on quality helped the duo carve their niche. “Our bread is completely natural, with no commercial yeast, which appeals to locals and tourists alike. Customers initially tried it out of curiosity but soon got hooked,” Andrea smiles.
Their range of sourdough bread and goodies like cinnamon rolls and pretzels reaches customers across Goa, from Agonda and Palolem in the south to Panjim, Porvorim, and Assagao in the north. “It’s overwhelming to see the support we’ve received over the past three years. It motivates us to do better every day,” says Andrea.
Beyond baking, Andrea actively engages with the Goan community. A former hockey coach in Rajasthan, she once ran a small primary school for underprivileged children and remains passionate about social causes. She continues to organise cultural events, including Kaffeeklatsch and Brezelfest, which have become popular in their locality. “Goans are peace-loving, generous, and hospitable,” Andrea says. “This warmth makes Goa a place where small entrepreneurs like us can thrive. If this spirit continues, more people will come to contribute to Goa’s rich culture.” With their commitment to quality and community, Aditya and Andrea have not only brought German bread to Goa but also created a home for themselves in its rich cultural landscape.
A day in the life
Every morning at 4 am, Aditya and Andrea begin baking to ensure their customers get fresh, hot bread. It’s a tedious process, which involves a lot of attention to detail - from feeding the sourdough starter, storing it right, mixing and shaping the naturally fermented dough and ensuring the hydration levels are perfect for a light, airy loaf. “Hygiene is a priority, and we ensure every loaf meets our high standards,” Andrea says. She adds that bread made in the traditional German way is low in gluten, high in fibre and keeps you full for longer- it does not cause bloating like regular bread, explains Andrea.
Despite the growing demand, staffing remains a challenge. “These days, we cannot expect anyone to work for low wages, especially with the high cost of living,” Aditya says. The couple currently employs three students who assist part-time while receiving a stipend. “It’s becoming too much for just the two of us, so we’re considering hiring a full-time baker. We want to expand but without compromising on quality,” he adds.