As December envelops Goa, a magical transformation takes place. The air crackles with Christmas cheer, marked by vibrant markets adorned with festive decorations, and homes aglow with stars and twinkling lights. At the heart of this merriment lies a cherished tradition—preparing and sharing an array of delectable Goan Christmas sweets.
Step into Goan households, and you'll find a flurry of activity days before Christmas. The focal point is the 'consuada' or 'kuswar,' a delightful assortment of sweets that holds immense cultural significance. Families embark on a sweet-making journey, infusing their homes with the aroma of time-honoured recipes.
At the forefront of this culinary extravaganza is 'Bebinca,' hailed as the 'Queen of Goan desserts.' Layers of indulgence crafted from egg yolks, coconut milk, ghee, and flour weave together to create this rich, multi-layered delicacy.
'Neureos,' affectionately called 'Natalanche Neureo,' hold a place of pride on the Christmas platter. These half-moon delights, filled with desiccated coconut, present an irresistible allure in various versions, each boasting its deliciousness.
No Goan 'kuswar' is complete without 'Bolinhas,' semolina and coconut cookies that are an absolute must for the festive spread. Their absence would leave a palpable void in the Christmas sweets tray.
'Dodol' tantalizes taste buds with its pudding-like texture, marrying the unique flavours of jaggery, creamy coconut milk, and the occasional crunch of cashew nuts. Crafting this dish involves the patient art of smoothing out jaggery and coconut milk mixtures.
'Baath' or 'Batk,' a traditional Goan Cake with Portuguese roots, blends semolina with the delicate essence of coconut milk, offering a slice of rich heritage with every bite.
'Pinagr' or 'Pinaca' emerges as another favourite, made from rice, coconut, and jaggery, often mistaken for 'croquettes' due to its cylindrical shape and brownish hue.
Deep-fried and sugar-glazed, 'Kulkul' steals the show with its intricate grooved surface and buttery curls. These golden-brown delights add a satisfying crunch to the festive platter.
The 'Rose Cookies,' also known as 'Rose De Coque' in Portugal and Goa, weave together fresh coconut milk and rice flour into delicate, intricate shapes using a special mould, inviting everyone to savour their unique taste.
And no festive celebration is truly complete without the iconic Christmas fruit cakes, a beloved symbol of shared joy and indulgence.
For many families, the preparation of these sweets commences weeks ahead, a ritual that extends beyond just culinary significance. Alva Severes, who makes traditional 'bulinas,' expresses, "We gather our ingredients early to savour the process to avoid the last-minute rush, then we can ease into the preparations by relishing the joy of preparing together."
Building connections within the neighbourhood through sharing sweets is a wonderful way to strengthen bonds. According to Celeste Fernandes, creating these treats is not just about the final product but also about the shared experience within her family. "Baking our Christmas cake is a tradition shared between my mother, brother, and I. It's a joyful time where we bond over a recipe passed down by my nana," she explains. While she and her brother assist with the cake, Celeste's mother focuses on making kulkuls, adding her touch to the festivities. This tradition creates cherished memories and fosters a sense of togetherness among them she adds.
In the weeks leading up to Christmas, many people find themselves caught up in work commitments, making it challenging to engage in the traditional practice of homemade sweets.
Celine Gomes reminisces about a time when her extended family gathered to craft these delights, but with everyone occupied with their respective responsibilities, purchasing sweets has become the norm. “When I was younger, we’d live as a joint family and there were many hands involved in making sweets, now it’s difficult with everyone busy with their jobs and school, so now we just buy the sweets,” says Celine Gomes.
Similarly, Agnela Fernandes reflects on the evolution of their family tradition. In the past, they used to come together to prepare sweets, but as everyone has grown older and busier, shopping for these treats has transformed into a new form of bonding experience for them. “A few years ago we’d all get together as a family and make the sweets, but as everyone has grown older, they are busy with their jobs and hardly get any time, so we make shopping for sweets a bonding experience,” she adds.