May is a month not just best for picnics and summer holidays, but was also traditionally that part of the year which required one and all to stalk in provisions needed for the approaching monsoon, as most village markets would be un-operational during this season. A couple of churches across the state have their feasts prominantly known for monsoon provisions sold in their fair stalls. Since these feasts are celebrated at a time not very far from monsoon, these are locally more popular as ‘Purumentachim Festã’ or ‘festas de provisões’ (meaning festivals of provisions).
At these feasts, people buy provisions enough to last them for the whole of the munsoon season. During this season since activities such as sea fishing are at stand still, Goans have been using creative ways to cater to their taste buds, thus not compramizing by any meanse on delicious food, during the munsoon. “In the month of May, when local fresh water ponds and lakes were harvesed I would rush there to buy loads of fish. Some of it was consumed on the same day, some was kept aside to prepare Molho while some of the live fish was put into huge copper pots (Bhann) with water and was taken out for consumption, as and when there was a need”, recalls Antionio Miranda from, Margão. He further mentioned that as a child in the 1970s he would head to the old market to purchase Bull frogs sold in sacks in the old market of Margão, by local youth who went catching them during the night. No sooner it rained, children would head to the fields being plaughed for planting paddy, in search of ‘kongé (field snails) which were then cooked that day. While if extra, these were stored in covered copper pots or bamboo baskets. In the month of May, most Catholic families would rutualistically slaughter a Pig. The meat was then salted raw and stored in a ‘Kodem’ (a teracotta basin). This meat was then used as and when needed for preparing curries with freshly extracted coconut milk. Some of the meat was also used for preparing sausages with marinated pork stuffed into cattle intestine and smoked above the cooking chull (fireplace). ‘Parro’ and ‘Balchão’ are dried and pickelled seafood preparations relished during the monsoon season. The main ingedient required for preservation of the pickled fish was palm viniger. Intrestingly viniger has been one ingredient not made use of by the Hindu community. Hence, these fish pickles were not prepared in Hindu households, but instead they would simply store dried and salted fish. “We purchased dried fish from the Mapuçá market”, mentions Madusudan Mahale from Mala in Panjim.
Late nights or early mornings during the first rains of the monsoon season were fun when boys in villages, from most houses would go in groups, to the fild, forests and river banks with kerosene lamps or fire torches to catch fish and frogs and crabs. This technique of fishing using light is referred to as ‘Dhipkavnni’ (a tachnique of fishing, which makes use of light senctivity of fish and frogs). “As a child, I recall my grandmother saying, ‘its sunday’ or ‘its Wednesday’, go to to the jamun tree in the backyard to check for mushrooms emerging on the surface. If there were, she would instruct us to pluck them in her presence”, says Loretta Aguiar from Colva. “However, it was never the case that all the mushrooms were plucked. Some were left as such, to ensure that they grow again in the coming year”, she eleborates further mentioning that these mushrooms were then washed and cooked for lunch and relished by all at home. That day the lunch had to be devoit of pork or beef, since these mushrooms, if complimented with meats are said to have caused severe food poisoning.
Madhusudan Mahale of Mala, Panjim also says “we prepare something called ‘Sange’ using sabudana. These are like chips which are dried and stored for the monsoon season when they are fried whenever required. It's crunchy feel beats all the chips available in the market”. Further she also speaks about the Pinapple halwa, pickles and papads made in summers so that they could be consumed during the chilly monsoon. There was no concept of frozen foods earlier, hence most of these provisions had to be made so as to ensure there was no defficiency of food during monsoon. In today’s times, however, things have changed and fish is sold in the market at all times during the year, thus gradually wiping off the concept of doing monsoon provisions. She further recalls that in her younger days, papads were prepared at home, but not any more. Seasonal vegetables are bought atleast ones during the season, she mentions. It is sad that people forget to preserve their natural heritage found in terms of various local seasonal fruits and vegies growing around. One needs to conserve all of these wonders at any cost. “Monsoons were never complete without ‘allum’ and ‘téro’(Colocassia leaves), being cooked at home. These plants would grow all around the place during the monsoon season. One needs to ponder on reasons as to why they are rarely seen around in today’s times.
Ajay Gãonkar from Ponda, speaks about Kanaki Killachi bhaji (a bamboo shoot preparation). “No sooner it started raining, one would notice fresh bamboo shoots, emerging from the ground. I would go to the forest with my friends as a group of 4-5 people, to procure these fresh shoots. Going alone is quite risky since one may encounter wild animals along the way there. We decided to go out on our search, on the day it was not raining much. That day we set out early in the morning with a ‘koito’ (a cutting instrument)”. Further he mentions that, ways in the forest have to be cleared off all the vegetition while they walk, since old routes are not clear due to excessive outgrown vegetation. “One’s inside the deep forest, we would go to multiple bamboo groves to check out for young bamboo shoots. If we spotted any, they would be cut using the koito with their tips chopped off. The tips were then covered in a ‘kolo’ (a cone made of leaves). Bundles of 2-4 bamboo shoots are then made and tied together using a wild creeper”, he says further stating that on their way back home, they would pluck other vegies such as Bonkulo bhaji (crepe ginger), Talkilo and téro thus building up a provision which would easily suffice for atleast one week. “All these vegies are prepared using similar masalas with no salt. Gram or Jackfruit seeds with grated coconut may be added to enhance the taste of these lovely seasonal preparations”, mentions Ajay Gãonkar.
Yet another preparation made before monsoon was mangada (mango jam) and Kuvallea vaddi (ash gourd fritters), fried until crisp and had as a side dish during lunch.
Preserving traditional monsoon cuisine is a wonderful endeavor! Monsoon cuisine often emphasizes warm, comforting dishes that provide nourishment and comfort during the rainy season. One can contribute towards celebrating and preserving monsoon-special traditional cuisine by gather recipes from elders or local cooks who specialize in traditional monsoon dishes. One should document these recipes carefully, noting any special techniques, ingredients, or variations observed. “Exploration of age-old preservation techniques like drying, pickling, or fermenting to extend the shelf life of seasonal ingredients ensures that key components of traditional dishes are available even when certain ingredients are out of season”, says Antoneta Vaz from Margão, further stating that elders should share their childhood stories and cultural significance behind each dish they prepared. Understanding the cultural context of these adds depth to the culinary experience and fosters appreciation for traditional cuisine among the young. Preserving and celebrating Goa's culinary heritage is vital not only for locals but also for visitors who want to experience the true authentic flavors of this beautiful coastal region of Goa. It is high time that local indigenous recipes are documented well before they have been lost forever.