Born out of a confluence of cultures, Goan cuisine is renowned all over the country. With its enticing and rich blend of flavours, the food is known to tickle one’s senses.
Goan food is like none other in the country. Despite all the diversity in the food across the small state, the ingredients used in the food make it one of a kind. These ingredients are produced locally and are a result of very specific conditions of soil, water and climate. Chef Roland Sequeira, owner of Mummai Restaurant says, “The taste of the food really depends on the soil and water of the place where the raw materials are grown.”
Goa’s tropical location also allows for spices with stronger flavours to grow and lend themselves to the duty of pleasuring palettes. Apart from the delight of flavours, Goa is also a haven for sea food lovers. “The local waters surrounding the Goan land also bring very unique flavours in the form of seafood,” says Chef Roland. Crab, mussels, squid, clams, lobsters, oysters, prawns and shrimps, and fish such as tuna, mackerel, kingfish, pomfret, and shark fish -- you name it and Goan cuisine will offer its rendition to you. Some other fan favourites of Goan seafood are fried, dried and salt cured fish.
Goan cuisine is a mix of its present and its not so old colonial past. Apart from the Portuguese, there are traces of British, Saraswat, and South influence in Goan food. The discernible impact left by Portuguese cuisine can be seen in the food practices such as the inclusion of vinegar, which is otherwise a very uncommon component in the rest of India’s kitchens. Two of the most popular being Coconut and Toddy vinegar. In some cases, a combination of the two is also used.
“Vinegar has a sharp taste, but because of its strong flavour, it works very well with meats,” says Chef Peter Fernandes, who runs a Goan restaurant in Pilerne named ‘Chef Peters Kitchen.’ “I use coconut vinegar for meat preparation as it gives it a very tangy and sweet flavour,” says Kheyali Vaze Founder and Head Chef of Nuun: The Flavour of Food.
Another classic illustration of Portuguese influence is Chorizos, or, spicy pork sausages. Vinegar and Chorizos work well together, “Vinegar is often used as a preservative for pickles and sausages,” says Chef Peter.
Despite having been introduced to the Portuguese, the flavour of Goan sausages is different. “The Portuguese use different kinds of sausages, but they’re milder in terms of spice in comparison to the Goan sausages.”
Goan sausages are pork products that have been salted and seasoned. The sausage strings are sun-dried before being smoke-dried on the hearth. During the monsoon season, when fish is scarce, they are commonly consumed. “I use chorizo to make the usual chorizo chilli, pies, puffs and quiches,” says Kheyali . “I also use it to make Chorizo eggs sometimes, they come out really well.” Most commonly, Chorizo is served with ‘Pao’ or rice with some form of a hotand sour curry.
Before Portugal’s colonisation of Goa, the only ‘bread’ the cuisine included rotis and chappatis. However, with the Portuguese came the distinct bread Goans call ‘Pao.’ And now, pao is nothing sort of essential to Goan food, especially in Christian households.
There are some variations in the manner of food preparation in Goan Hindu and Goan Christian kitchens. Christian culinary traditions make use of vinegar; In contrast, Hindu dishes, Tamarind and Kokum are widely used to induce a sour tang. “Kokum, vinegar and mango seeds add a mix of tanginess and sourness that’s essential to many of our dishes,” says Jade D’sa, Goan Food Blogger. Chef Roland adds to this, “The sourness of kokum has a very unique taste, it is sharper than tamarind.” Certain curries and Sol Kadhi make use of Kokum, making them very personal to Goa.
On the other hand, Chef Peter says, “Tamarind has a softer flavour, but it helps make food sweet and sour.” Goan food cannot be put in a box, says Chef Roland. “It comes in many flavours -- it can be spicy, but is not overpowering,” he adds. For instance, in Chicken Xacuti, dried red chillies are used, “this completely changes the colour of the dish,” says Chef Peter.
Some dishes are also seasonal, like mushrooms which grow wildly across Goa, are mainly available only during monsoons, which make them very unique. Button mushrooms that are specifically wildly grown in the forest can be used for Chilli fry, Xacuti, Stuffed mushrooms, and bhaji.
“Locally grown raw materials or items made in Goa are unique and makes Goan dishes very different from other parts of India,” says Chef Roland. “Turmeric leaves, pepper corn, Bay leaf and Kokum are very easily available in local markets.” says Chef Peter. “Kokum needs very specially done curing, so sometimes, the genuine products are slightly expensive but the quality is worth it.”
Speaking of availability of ingredients, Jade says, “Coconuts are widely found across the state. Mango seeds, kokum and vinegar can be sourced locally or bought from local markets like Mapusa.” Coconuts are used in Goan cuisine generously, “Coconuts add a luscious, creaminess to Goan food and its fragrance and flavour add depth to sweet and savoury dishes,” she adds. Kheyali says, “Coconut can be used for dry and wet masalas, coconut milk based gravies and also desserts.”
Another product Goa is famous for is Cashews; these are found in many different ways. They are used in desserts and curries, supplying a very unique flavour to them. “Cashew nuts are found in Goa in quite abundance, and so it’s used to make local drink Feni and also several sweets.” Cashews are also used to make ‘Urrak’, an alcohol that is available seasonally.
Other common flavours in Goan food are: Turmeric leaves and Taro leaves. “I use Turmeric leaves more for the fragrance infused in the dish through steaming than the taste of the leaf,” says Kheyali. “As for Taro leaves, they add a very nutty taste to the food,” she adds. Taro leaves are also used in Maharashtrian and Bengali cuisines. “I like to look at my ingredients and vegetable as a colour palette and Goan cuisine allows for me to add different colours to my food,” Kheyali says.
“Another element that make Goan food different from the rest of India is the Portuguese influence,” says Chef Roland. “For instance, we use wine and alcohol in our cooking, which is not usually seen in kitchens in the rest of the country.”
However, he says that Portuguese food is a dying art in Goa. “The ingredients aren’t as readily available as they used to be,” he says. Chef Peter says, “For example, the Cod fish becomes very expensive by the time it reaches Goa.” He adds, “Apart from that, the flavours are also dying, since Portuguese food is milder than Goan food.”
“But supermarkets are helping deal with this situation, even if the ingredients aren’t as prominent anymore” Chef Roland says. “They are definitely helpful to people are willing to explore cuisines,” he adds. “Availability in supermarkets allows people to explore and to experiment with their cuisine at home.”