Mapusa market is the place to be for the last few Fridays in the month of May. With the hurried rush and crowded alleys, it is brimming with activity. Numerous vendors from across the state make their way to the market with their wares and fresh food items that are very attractive. With baskets filled with spices, cereals, pulses, chillies, dried fish and sausages, one shops till they drop.
‘Purument’ or preserving food items for
the monsoons is a tradition followed for generations. By the end of the month
of May, just before the monsoons, people would buy food stuff that won’t be
available in the market during the rainy season. In the past, people did not
have the luxuries of refrigerators and freezers to preserve their food. They
would dry the required foodstuff with salt and store them away in a cool place
so that they would last for the monsoons and even the whole year.
Dr Fatima da Silva Gracias is a historian
based in Goa with a doctorate in the area of Indo-Portuguese History. Her books
on Goan food include ‘Cozinha de Goa: History and Tradition of Goan Food’ and
‘Inside a Goan Kitchen – A food Glossary’. Dr Fatima says, “Purument was a very
important aspect of Goan life. The markets were especially held in months of
April and May just before the monsoons. The items usually consisted of
chillies, condiments, dry fish, rice etc. Condiments included jeera, pepper,
coriander seeds which had to be cleaned and dried well before storing. Chilies
were not just one variety. There were chillies grown in different regions and
they could be procured from Parra, Aldona and other villages. Even different
types of dry fish, coconut, oils, had to be stored. Besides food, firewood also
had to be procured for the rains. Fruits too included dried mango slices and
seeds. Baby onions were plaited together and hung over the fireplace in the
kitchen.”
However, things have changed. “You need not make provisions now
as many ingredients are available through the year. The reason provisions had
to be made in those days is because of the lack of means to store food and
transportation. One had to travel by foot and the monsoons were testing times.
There were no proper roads and one would not know where they are walking and if
there are potholes. All these food items were stored well in advance so that
the monsoons would require less travel,” says Dr Fatima.
CEO of Hands-On-Historians, Sanjeev Sardessai hopes to promote
the rich heritage and history of Goa to the next generation through his various
heritage walks and using different audio-visual mediums. “The tradition of
Purument has been followed for many generations and the food items were stocked
before the monsoons. Many churches in Goa celebrated feasts during the month of
April and May. Most of these churches had huge compounds and open spaces which
were ideal for a purument market which would last for a few days. Devotees
would attend the feast celebrations and buy the necessary food stock before
returning home. It was all done in a single trip. It was a prelude to the
monsoons,” says Sanjeev.
Some of the noted markets are during the Milagres Feast in
Mapusa, the Feast of the Holy Cross in St Cruz, the Feast of Ascension of Jesus
Christ in Panjim and the Feast of Pentecost also known as the Feast of the Holy
Spirit in Margao, which is held on the last Sunday of May.
“Now purument is losing its lustre. In those days, there was a
need for proper preservation whereas now everything is available 24/7 for 365
days. Our ancestors used to buy onions and hang it over the fireplace which
would be consumed during the monsoons. Now, the same onions can be ordered
online for instant delivery. There were also a lot of superstitions surrounding
some food items like salt, which was then sea salt would not be given to anyone
after sundown. But the reason was that to store this sea salt, it had to be put
in huge containers which would wet the floor and so it was stored outside the
house. One would not want to go out in the dark to get salt so it was believed
as bad luck to give salt after dark,” explains Sanjeev.
He further adds, “Another superstition was that sewing needles
were also not sold after dark because in case they fall down, they could prick
someone in the dark. Purument had to be stocked because shops were very limited
and they would close at the most by 6.30 pm in the evening. It was better to
have all the food items in the house itself.”
Interestingly, the traditional sale of food items for purument
has now shifted to the mall. The second edition of the three-day Purumentachem
Fest is being held at the mall till May 21. Curated by Festakar Marius
Fernandes, this year’s festival marks his 75th fest. The Purumentachem Fest
(Festival of Provisions) serves as an opportunity for locals to stock up on
essential items for the rainy season. The festival also offered engaging
workshops conducted by co-curator Gwendolyn de Ornelas, in collaboration with
Clavia Fernandes and Emera Remedios.
“People get all these food items throughout the year in the
supermarket. However, in the villages, one is assured to get organic food and
fresh produce. These are items which will not require a fridge or a freezer. At
this Purumentachem Fest, there are products that are fresh from the farm. These
are usually sold on the side of the streets so its marg to the mall,” says
Festakar Marius Fernandes.
The
tradition of Pavsacho purument is very much alive and people can still be seen
busy shopping for their favourite items that they cannot do without even in the
monsoons. Whether it is eating ukde xitt with parra or enjoying a bowl of
boiled ausande with grated coconut and jaggery, it is the same purument
shopping that matters.