Divar Island happy to live without a sea of opportunity

Ten kilometers away from Panjim, Divar Island is the second largest island (Chorao being the largest) of the seven islands which are situated in the Mandovi River. The island is roughly six kilometer long and about three kilometer wide which is connected by four ferry services. Intrestingly, the Konkan railway line actually runs across the island but the trains do not stop.   

Divar, which used to be the site of a famous Ganesh temple from the Kadamba period was damaged by Muslim invadors in the 14th and 15th centuries, then rebuilt and destroyed again by the Portuguese. However, the idol was saved and smuggled to safety in Bicholim and later to a temple in Ponda. The idol was recently brought back and installed in the new temple built close to the impressive and intricately carved Piedade Church.

Over 5000 people live here, who basically survive on traditional way of fishing which are heavily dependent on the tidal flow of the river surrounding the island. With time passing by, the residents have also taken up pissiculture and agriculture, which is mainly paddy.  

Hindu pilgrims used to come here from all over to visit the many temples on the island before the Portuguese converted the population to Christianity in the 16th century. However, now it is a hotspot in Goa for shooting films. The latest being Deepika Padukone’s Finding Fenny. A 100 year-old mango tree (Tree of Seasons) which almost replicates as a banyan tree, has been witness to many Bollywood romantic sequences.

Romeo Pereira, a senior citizen and a resident of Divar is a member of a local charitable society and ex-member of the local Panchayat who burns his night lamp translating Portuguese legal documents and doing social work. He also works as a guide for tourists arriving in the Island to soak in different flavour and culture of Goa. 

“The island is surviving only on agriculture and fishing. We have no avenues for jobs as people of Divar do not want it. They really want to live the traditional way. In fact, in such a large populace, we do not have a single hospital or healthcare facilities here in island but the ferry plies till 2 am and in emergency the ferry is ready to operate at Rs 50 at wee hours,” said Romeo Pereira.

The residents bid for spots to catch their fish which is made available to them on a contract of two years. Only those who have their piece of land in the island are allowed to bid. The residents and specially registered fishermen have in fact build a pliable wooden small dams between two water bodies, which is like a seive or a mesh which easily helps trap the fish. (see Picture). “Yes all these prize catch are either sold in Mapusa or Panjim fish market,” added Romeo Periera. However, he raised his eye brows over the major issue of ill-managed solid waste management in the island.

The island is mostly self-sufficient but for a good restaurant. Near the jetties once could find small tea stalls which mostly survives on the visiting tourists and people waiting to catch their ferry. Hari and Ramya a young working from couple from a leadingcompany from Bangaluru, who were a part of a tourist tour organised by Make it Happen had very few choices to munch in the island. Similarly, Rohini Das a blogger, too had to be content with a packet of buscuits and not `samosas’ which she was craving for on a breezy cool place. “We mostly have somethings which the people of this Island may wish to have. However, during the season time we do have more variety of snacks for tourists, as they become my major bread earner,” said the owner of the snack joint next to jetty.

“On our guided tour we showcase the rich cultural heritage of Divar Island which has preserved it old world charm from one of the finest Baroque churches in Goa, ancient temple sites, traditional fishing methods and well maintained houses painted brightly in reminiscence of the Portuguese time” said Maria Victor, Founder of Make it Happen.

Make It Happen has collaborated with Goa Heritage Action Group (GHAG), an NGO committed toward preserving the natural and built heritage of Goa. Part proceeds of this tour are donated to GHAG which supports in providing content and training to guides for this tour.

“At GHAG we are working closely with Make It Happen to develop interesting heritage and cultural experiences in Goa. Also to increase awareness of the rich fabric of the natural, historical and cultural environment of Goa, with history and preservation as a focal point,” said Prajal Sakhardande, Chairperson of Goa Heritage Action Group.